de itinere primo: day 1

October 23, 2012


To me as I begin trip three it seems like the best possible time to begin writing about trip 1 and publishing its photos;


Day 1: Calydon (where I didn’t take good photos but there was a boar hunt there once!); Missolonghi’s garden of heroes; celebrating those, especially non-Greeks, who participated in the Greek War of Independence, in which Byron’s heart is buried. I hadn’t really thought before how patronizing Philhellenism is, and had conflicting emotions about the Western Europeans’ role in the Greek War of Independence. It seems culturally imperialist to think that the Greeks needed Europe’s enthusiasm and support; but revolutions are difficult and revolting groups always need help, right?; but there is something patronizing about how the Europeans looked at modern Greeks (as like pro temp. guardians of the culture that rightfully belonged to Western Europe). This is very well articulated in Hamilakis’ book Nation and its Ruins, which is my favorite book. Here is a photo of Byron’s statue.


We then went to Oeniadae, where there is a shipyard which I also didn’t take photos of (well, iphone photos, but the lens is broken so they’re all half blurry.) The night ended at Nafpaktos, featuring an amazing statue of Cervantes!


As well as some gorgeous views:


Nafpaktos evening; view of suspension bridge



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